Greetings! And some questions about forpus care

I wonder, if any of you tried organic bee pollen. I have some and I may give it a try if it's okay. I saw many people use it online, but experienced birdkeepers sharing their own experience is important to me. Having animals is beyond reading infos online, and it may be hard to differentiate the good and bad info when you are fairly new to keeping a new pet.


What about eggs? Can I feed it to my juveniles to support growth, or is it more about the breeding pair food? As I mentioned above, we do have our free roaming chickens in the garden!:hatching-chick_9423:
 
Errr are you getting unweaned babies? They should be fully grown as soon as they can fly so about 14 weeks old.
if they are related do not breed them.
egg mine have a little boiled egg mashed up about once a month. It's high protein so a now and again thing.
 
Nearly forgot egg shell is good if you grill it until dry and then crush it as calcium addition let them decide if they want it though.
 
Errr are you getting unweaned babies? They should be fully grown as soon as they can fly so about 14 weeks old.
if they are related do not breed them.
egg mine have a little boiled egg mashed up about once a month. It's high protein so a now and again thing.
Good morning!

They started eating on their own two weeks ago, she said. But aren’t they still considered juveniles? I thought so, until they reach sexual maturity

I didnt even get a nesting box. That is a future plan to think throughly if they form a pair and if I wanna keep the babies. If I end up deciding to have babies, I would like to keep them, not rehome. Also I read that laying too early may cause problems, so I am planning to wait until they are a year old at least.

And no, these two are not not related dw. I asked it before getting them. They belong to different parents and family tree. I mentioned above, my main purpose is keeping them socially active with each other and pairs seem to be the only way for parrotlets(they seem to be aggressive otherwise?) and I find it cute when they groom each other, snuggle and socialise with its own kind. I dont mind if they feel less connected with me when they form a pair

Okay both the egg and shell is noted. Their current owner said they are used to Versele laga grit & coral so I got that one, and cuttlebone.
 
Usually if they are the same age they would likely be brother and sister so NO breeding them great you have a breeder with more than one pair with young.
Yes juvenile but will just be a general maintenance diet great time to introduce new fruits and vegetables to at that age so they learn to eat healthy.
Always good to have two company when your not around and they feel safer if you end up with a flock then dynamics change somebody has to be the boss etc. Keeping their young if they breed would have to be separate from mum and dad males separated from females it's a dream thought but a nightmare to deal with.
 
Usually if they are the same age they would likely be brother and sister so NO breeding them great you have a breeder with more than one pair with young.
Yes juvenile but will just be a general maintenance diet great time to introduce new fruits and vegetables to at that age so they learn to eat healthy.
Always good to have two company when your not around and they feel safer if you end up with a flock then dynamics change somebody has to be the boss etc. Keeping their young if they breed would have to be separate from mum and dad males separated from females it's a dream thought but a nightmare to deal with.
You are right! It must be hard to deal with, especially if you let them brood and hatch all the eggs they lay. I heard there can be eggs up to 8-10!!

When they brood, taking the eggs before they develop a baby inside and letting them have only 1-2 eggs to hatch sounds silly or not? They would take better of a single or two babies, they will be newbies to raising babies so it would ease their job(and prevent deaths due to poor care of like 8 birds at a time), and I may keep the babies in a new setup easily? Just thinking out loud.

And yes, she has different pairs she breed and these two belong to different lines. I also wanted to get one wildcolored green on purpose, just to make sure genetics get stronger in case I decide to have babies.
 
If you take eggs away they will add more a hen bird stops laying only when she is happy with the number. They are not like chickens. Chicks don't all hatch together.
Laying additional eggs to make up for what you remove will eventually kill the hen bird it would strip her body of calcium. The more you take the more she lays
 
If you take eggs away they will add more a hen bird stops laying only when she is happy with the number. They are not like chickens. Chicks don't all hatch together.
Laying additional eggs to make up for what you remove will eventually kill the hen bird it would strip her body of calcium. The more you take the more she lays
what I meant was, when she gets into the brooding phase(like laying on the eggs to hatch them once she reaches enough number for herself in total), replacing some with “fake” eggs or something similar (like previously laid unfertilised eggs maybe), so the end result would be only a few real babies

You mean she would quit brooding the eggs in such scenario or if some of her eggs are taken while brooding? Or what you mean is more about not letting enough to accumulate so she would never be able to brood them?
 
If eggs are removed while brooding she will add to the clutch. Parrots can be a right pain in the bum at times lol.
First brood is sometimes a failure due to learning processes. Dummy eggs a good idea but sometimes if the dummy isn't quite specific enough to species they will kick them out.
You could pin prick a couple so they don't develop. All way ahead in the future though.
 
If eggs are removed while brooding she will add to the clutch. Parrots can be a right pain in the bum at times lol.
First brood is sometimes a failure due to learning processes. Dummy eggs a good idea but sometimes if the dummy isn't quite specific enough to species they will kick them out.
You could pin prick a couple so they don't develop. All way ahead in the future though.
Yes,
thank you very much!
 
Hello everyone,

I got cuttlebone and grit following to the advice of my breeder. But I am reading conflicting stuff online, some saying don’t feed grit it is bad for parrots

I am confused. Could you please help me? Should I keep grit (I got versele Laga grit with coral- it even has cockatiel and budgie picture on it?) and %100 natural unflavored cuttlebone


I will either keep or remove them following to your recommendation. My breeder said her parrotlets are all used to having grit in their cage. Confusing

If it is not good, then I can easily give it to my dad as his pigeons love having grit around. If it is okay to have, I would like to continue providing them some as they and their parents are used to have in their cage
 
Hello everyone,

I got cuttlebone and grit following to the advice of my breeder. But I am reading conflicting stuff online, some saying don’t feed grit it is bad for parrots

I am confused. Could you please help me? Should I keep grit (I got versele Laga grit with coral- it even has cockatiel and budgie picture on it?) and %100 natural unflavored cuttlebone


I will either keep or remove them following to your recommendation. My breeder said her parrotlets are all used to having grit in their cage. Confusing

If it is not good, then I can easily give it to my dad as his pigeons love having grit around. If it is okay to have, I would like to continue providing them some as they and their parents are used to have in their cage
My understanding is that birds like pigeons, who swallow their sees whole, require non-soluble grit as a digestive aid.

Our parrots on the other hand, shell their seeds when eating them and do not therefore require grit, as their food is easily digested.

If you'd like to continue to offer grit to your birds, I'd recommend ground oyster shell which is soluble and easily dealt with by a parrots stomach. There may be alternatives and perhaps other forum members can further advise.
 
Losing my mind over their cuteness.

What are the safest foods to introduce them to eat more veggies/fruits/greens in your experience? Today I tried mixing some seeds/juvenile formula for growth and some carrot/green peppers. Im looking for the safest options that are commonly liked by majority of the parrot community.

They loved it!

I would like to try some fruits tomorrow. I have apple, orange, blueberry, strawberry, kumquat and pears on hand.

I’d like to try greens next day. I have dill, parsley, basil, lettuce, and rosemary(bush in the garden)

Also one day veggies, next day fruits, following day herbs/greens. And repeating this cycle twice a week. Does this sound like a good feeding schedule?

I watch and read a lot. It is just I wanna hear about your experience. Because experience matters IMO

Also I am used to sprouting mung beans for salad. Should I feed it to them too? Or is there better alternatives in terms of nutrition and/or easing them to trying sprouts
 
Also, is there any veggie/fruit combos to increase the absorption/benefit of each other and such?

One last question. I did not want to use plastic so I got steel bowls. But sadly all bird size ones were sold out. So I got the ones for cat/small dog size🤣 so it is big and they sometimes go in ans eat this way.

I wash the bowl everyday before renewing the food every morning. I hope this poses no issue
 
Mine get fruit and veggies together they seem to know what they want/require that day. Henni my elderly grey is currently really into munching fresh spinach
Sprouting things is nutritionally best.
Mine like to try and steal what I am eating so I purposefully eat healthy things in front of them to show it's food and that it's good.
You could also make chop.
 
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