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Discussion in 'Rehoming' started by Beanikki, Jan 22, 2019.

  1. TomsMum

    TomsMum Administrator Staff Member Admin

    I personally don’t like pellets with the added colourings in them, and Versele-Laga do not state which colourants they use. P15 also has methionine in which I dislike too.
    I personally use TOPS pellets and Harrisons Adult Lifetime, and I also use a high quality seed mix Delinature 61, as I like my amazon to have a good mixture of textures, and I don’t believe the pellets have to be better than seed argument. My Conure had Delinature 64, as they can have a higher fat content than Amazons.
    You shouldn’t need to give a vitamin supplement when you are feedinga pelleted diet, because they vitamin content is already included.

    Keep on trying with fresh foods, these are an important part of the diet...my birds love sugar snap peas, and thawed frozen peas. I give my Amazon a warmed piece of steamed sweet potato every morning so I can ensure some beta carotene intake.
    plumsmum likes this.
  2. Beanikki

    Beanikki Regular Member


    He goes back in quite readily to be honest. He knows what it means when I stand by his cage and say come on, bedtime. He does eat a bit of fruit and veg but not very much.

  3. Beanikki

    Beanikki Regular Member


    No he never improved to be honest. A good point though, I don’t tend to interact with him very much when he is sat on me. Mainly due to him biting me if I try to stroke him.
    He does enjoy me talking to him though so I can try and do more of that so he doesn’t feel ignored.

  4. Michael Reynolds

    Michael Reynolds Regular Member

    My lucky will not let me stroke him but he will take a treat of a piece of wall nut from me, but as with the Senegal parrots they cannot be ignored, I have never been bitten by Lucky but then if he is on me I always give him the occasional glance and talk to him. he hates the phone and camera and will fly away if I have it. is Apollo a good flyer?
  5. Beanikki

    Beanikki Regular Member


    Yes he flies around well and follows me everywhere. He even tries to get into the bathroom with me when I go to the toilet.
    I’ll definitely start giving him more attention when he’s on me and see if it helps.
    Michael Reynolds likes this.
  6. Beanikki

    Beanikki Regular Member

    Thanks for the advice. I tried Harrison’s before and he wouldn’t eat it. Never tried the tops. Will give it a go. Sweet potatoes are a good idea as he will eat those so I’ll bring more of those into his diet.
  7. Roz

    Roz Regular Member

    Just going to add my two pence:

    You say that he bites for no reason when sitting on your hand or shoulder. Biting is not a reflexive behaviour but an operant one, so even though you can’t see it, there is always a reason. As for your shoulder, he shouldn’t be there if he bites because you can’t see his body language. On your hand, there should be body language to warn you just before he is about to bite, maybe feathers pulled in a little tighter, eyes widening, etc. Maybe it’s a lack of attention by you (he seems quite bonded to you) say if you are watching TV or something, or even eye contact can set them off. You have already pin pointed the reason when your dog comes too near you. One of my Amazons used to bite me when I touched the remote control or phone. Once I knew it was the remotes, I could work on desensitizing her to them. So if you can try to figure out the antecedent/cue (the situation immediately before the bite) it would help.

    Otherwise, if you know Apollo will likely bite after say 20 seconds of being on your hand. Gently set him down after 10 seconds. And reinforce his getting off your hand with maybe gently holding a foot toy for him to play with for a while. Then ask him to get up on your hand again. And put him down again after 10 seconds and reinforce. Gradually over days you will be able to have him on your hand for 11 seconds, 12, 13 etc. Build up the time gradually.

    Working with him is hugely important because the more he is allowed to bite the more he is learning to bite. If you are ignoring any body language (and it might be very subtle) then he is going to stop giving it and just bite.

    As for the cage, I also have a highly cage territorial bird. Kobe the Pionus. I would never try to clean out his cage with him inside. If I did, it would teach him to bite more. So yes, do take Apollo out when you clean. It has taken months if not years to get Kobe to step onto my hand from inside the cage – I will only offer my hand if I am 100% sure he won’t bite. Because I have worked to avoid the bite at all costs, Kobe rarely bites now. If he does, it is my fault.

    Leave the stroking for now, if it results in a bite. Does he play with any toys? Any foot toys? Any toy parts? See if you can gradually touch the top of his head with a favourite toy. Make the interaction fun… a joke even. You will be desensitizing him to having his head touched. Then over months you can very gradually swap the toy for your fingers. Once he realizes how great a head skritch is, he will want more. :)
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2019
    TomsMum and Michael Reynolds like this.