CRAZY BLUE QUAKER

It takes time and patience to build up the friendship
Rome was not built in a day ... They never told us how long it took!
The fact that you have had some success is excellent news some birds just take longer than others to trust us humans. We're a dodgy bunch of pink things!
If where Pat came from last human encounter was a human grabbing him to give him / her to you that's going to make a big impression on a youngster plus mum and dad vanished new place new sounds new routine new foods it's a lot to get your head around when your so young.
Hang on in there your doing fine, plus there's no guarantee your bird would be happy living elsewhere anyway as it all starts over again for them.
 
Hi hun I totally get your frustration and wanting things to be better for Pat the Quaker. I have a charity adoption/rescue, a Galah, five years this year and I still cannot attempt a step up, he's all over the place mentally. I have managed using soft eye movements to get him to come see me in a corner of his cage. He asks for kisses in the evening, find he is more receptive to one on one at bedtime. If you think about it, predators stare, we stare to focus and see what is happening, but if you blink lots, look down rather than at, it helps. We do not want to be thought of as a predator do we?

I have problems cleaning the cage, so do the best I can until we have a 'better' day and go for it then. One step forward, two steps back! It's not ideal, my ideal anyway, I like my birds cages spotless LOL. Please hang in there hun, once Pat gets the measure of you things will come on leaps and bounds, just go with the flow, try not to impose things, tiny steps OK? U r doing great honest! Believe me wanted to throw in the towel once or twice but then something nice happens and it is a different day!
:)
 
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PatTheQuaker said:
Hi just a update on how pat is doing, he is still not doing great, he is allowing me to approach the cage no problem and allow hands in the cage but as soon as i go near him he goes mental, hes eating and drinking great, I have let him out cage once but trying to get him back was a nightmare hes just not ready, I feel like im being cruel he is 5/6 months old now (I have had him 2 months) and hes not tamed or able to come out cage, I partially clean his cage daily and change food and water along with fresh fruit and veg (which he loves) but trying to get to any part of the inside of the cage for a deep clean is non existent hes very aggressive, any help would be greatly appreciated as I feel like giving up I love him but wonder if he would be happier in a aviary 😢
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You are not being cruel. It just takes time. I've never owned a Quaker, but I can tell you that you our Cockatiels would not sit on us for five or six months, and it was another few months before they would climb on us.

I am not trying to tell you what to do...but, a year from now, you might be very happy that you kept him.
 
plumsmum said:
Hi hun I totally get your frustration and wanting things to be better for Pat the Quaker. I have a charity adoption/rescue, a Galah, five years this year and I still cannot attempt a step up, he's all over the place mentally. I have managed using soft eye movements to get him to come see me in a corner of his cage. He asks for kisses in the evening, find he is more receptive to one on one at bedtime. If you think about it, predators stare, we stare to focus and see what is happening, but if you blink lots, look down rather than at, it helps. We do not want to be thought of as a predator do we?

I have problems cleaning the cage, so do the best I can until we have a 'better' day and go for it then. One step forward, two steps back! It's not ideal, my ideal anyway, I like my birds cages spotless LOL. Please hang in there hun, once Pat gets the measure of you things will come on leaps and bounds, just go with the flow, try not to impose things, tiny steps OK? U r doing great honest! Believe me wanted to throw in the towel once or twice but then something nice happens and it is a different day!
:)
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Thanks for your input much appreciated, I love him and his little mannerisms hes so funny and he is very content in his cage with all his toys and treats but as a lot of people have stated it takes time its just frustrating you just want to hold him and pet him but he’s still a baby a lot of learning to do as well as myself x
 
PatTheQuaker said:
Thanks for your input much appreciated, I love him and his little mannerisms hes so funny and he is very content in his cage with all his toys and treats but as a lot of people have stated it takes time its just frustrating you just want to hold him and pet him but he’s still a baby a lot of learning to do as well as myself x
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Just to mention hun, any petting or holding is aways on their terms. My cuddle bunny will certainly tell me if my timing is wrong and not beyond letting me know either (ouch!). She is mostly a sweetheart but they have minds of their own and that needs to be respected. I love that he is content with his cage; his safe space and his toys. Please have a read up on appropriate stroking for when the time is right. You need to be seen in the right light, as a companion, not a mate. Some birds like a (human) whistle, singing to them so something to try, mine likes peekaboo. Will distract from a strop mostly. :)
 
:welcome:Lee and Pat!

As everyone has said, go very slowly. Your aim is to try to keep Pat's body language as relaxed as possible as much as possible. I'll explain why in a minute.

It's brilliant that Pat is ok with you approaching the cage and your hands in the cage!!! Not sure what you mean about when you "go near him" he goes mental - are you not near him when your hands are in the cage? Do you mean if your face gets too close or maybe the rest of your body?

Every time he goes mental, that feeling of fear/panic/distrust will be paired with you, which is why the idea is to do everything you can to keep his body language calm and relaxed. That feeling of being calm and relaxed will then be paired with you - he will begin to feel safer and trust will be built. It is impossible to train any animal if they are on high alert.

You have plenty of time to desensitize him to being close to you, but for now give him attention from afar. You may want to avoid direct eye contact if that panics him.

Here is some info about taming fearful parrots:

thinkparrot.com

Fearful Parrots and How to Tame/Gain Their Trust | ThinkParrot

How to gain the trust of a nervous, fearful or untame parrot. Advice including using simple observation skills and reinforcing consequences.
thinkparrot.com thinkparrot.com

If approaching the cage is a problem, you can use negative reinforcement which I explain about 4 paragraphs down in the above article.
 
Roz said:
:welcome:Lee and Pat!

As everyone has said, go very slowly. Your aim is to try to keep Pat's body language as relaxed as possible as much as possible. I'll explain why in a minute.

It's brilliant that Pat is ok with you approaching the cage and your hands in the cage!!! Not sure what you mean about when you "go near him" he goes mental - are you not near him when your hands are in the cage? Do you mean if your face gets too close or maybe the rest of your body?

Every time he goes mental, that feeling of fear/panic/distrust will be paired with you, which is why the idea is to do everything you can to keep his body language calm and relaxed. That feeling of being calm and relaxed will then be paired with you - he will begin to feel safer and trust will be built. It is impossible to train any animal if they are on high alert.

You have plenty of time to desensitize him to being close to you, but for now give him attention from afar. You may want to avoid direct eye contact if that panics him.

Here is some info about taming fearful parrots:

thinkparrot.com

Fearful Parrots and How to Tame/Gain Their Trust | ThinkParrot

How to gain the trust of a nervous, fearful or untame parrot. Advice including using simple observation skills and reinforcing consequences.
thinkparrot.com thinkparrot.com

If approaching the cage is a problem, you can use negative reinforcement which I explain about 4 paragraphs down in the above article.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input I will have a read of this, when i go in to the cage to change food and water hes fine he realises that hes getting fed but i have tried getting closer with his treats (he adores apples when i get around a inch from him with the treat or apple he flys to bottom of cage with an aggressive manner going anywhere but near me I take a step back to avoid negativity until he calms and try again but still same thing, I dont want his cage getting too dirty i cant deep clean it I change the paper pads at bottom of cage and the poo from the bottom of bars but getting near his perch or bars near the perch is near impossible.
 
PatTheQuaker said:
Thank you for your input I will have a read of this, when i go in to the cage to change food and water hes fine he realises that hes getting fed but i have tried getting closer with his treats (he adores apples when i get around a inch from him with the treat or apple he flys to bottom of cage with an aggressive manner going anywhere but near me I take a step back to avoid negativity until he calms and try again but still same thing, I dont want his cage getting too dirty i cant deep clean it I change the paper pads at bottom of cage and the poo from the bottom of bars but getting near his perch or bars near the perch is near impossible.
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That's absolutely great he is letting you get close to change food and water. Just do the best you can re cleaning for now. It will be ok - it's just temporary.

PatTheQuaker said:
I take a step back to avoid negativity until he calms and try again but still same thing
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The negativity has already happened (fear/aggressive/escape behaviour), thus already pairing you with the adverse experience. I suggest avoid giving him treats for the moment. You really don't want this reaction.

What you can do, if he stays calm (watch and heed that body language), is fix a slice of apple between the bars of the cage and leave him to explore it when you have backed off. Gradually get slower and slower at fixing the slice of apple with the idea that he will eventually get impatient and come over to eat whilst you still have hold of one end. This will take days, or even weeks. Never force it, always go as fast as he is comfortable with, and he will show you this through his body language... if his eyes open wide, feathers slick down and he starts leaning away, stop what you are doing and back off.

Meanwhile be sure to maintain exactly the same food and cleaning routine, so that he knows what to expect and when. Much later on, when he goes down to eat as soon as you put in the breakfast bowl, you can think of opening the door of the cage an hour or so before breakfast. When it's time to slot in the breakfast bowl, he will hopefully fly back in himself, because he knows the routine and is hungry. That's how I worked it for my then untame Amazon, Ollie. I never had to touch him. Later on I taught him to step up etc.

You can use the CAT protocol to approach him, which is a type of negative reinforcement (very useful if you can't yet give a bird treats):
1. Start walking slowly towards the cage (without looking like you are stalking him!). As soon as his body language starts changing, stop. This is your starting point.
2. Take one smooth step towards him. If he shows a little fear (eye open wide, feathers slicked down, slight leaning away), stop. As soon as he relaxes again, turn round and walk back to the starting point. (That's his reward/reinforcer for showing you relaxed body language - in other words you are removing the aversive, which is you at the moment).
3. Start again. See if you can take one and a half steps towards him, watching that body language. As soon as he shows a sign of discomfort. Stop. Wait. As soon as he relaxes, remove the aversive, ie. turn round and walk back to the starting point.
4. Start again. 2 smooth steps towards him...... etc until you can get up to the cage.
This works well with fear or aggression. And you'll find you can get quickly get faster at approaching with him remaining relaxed. But you need to really be on the ball watching for the slightest change in his body language and catching it way before it has a chance to escalate.
 
Roz said:
That's absolutely great he is letting you get close to change food and water. Just do the best you can re cleaning for now. It will be ok - it's just temporary.


The negativity has already happened (fear/aggressive/escape behaviour), thus already pairing you with the adverse experience. I suggest avoid giving him treats for the moment. You really don't want this reaction.

What you can do, if he stays calm (watch and heed that body language), is fix a slice of apple between the bars of the cage and leave him to explore it when you have backed off. Gradually get slower and slower at fixing the slice of apple with the idea that he will eventually get impatient and come over to eat whilst you still have hold of one end. This will take days, or even weeks. Never force it, always go as fast as he is comfortable with, and he will show you this through his body language... if his eyes open wide, feathers slick down and he starts leaning away, stop what you are doing and back off.

Meanwhile be sure to maintain exactly the same food and cleaning routine, so that he knows what to expect and when. Much later on, when he goes down to eat as soon as you put in the breakfast bowl, you can think of opening the door of the cage an hour or so before breakfast. When it's time to slot in the breakfast bowl, he will hopefully fly back in himself, because he knows the routine and is hungry. That's how I worked it for my then untame Amazon, Ollie. I never had to touch him. Later on I taught him to step up etc.

You can use the CAT protocol to approach him, which is a type of negative reinforcement (very useful if you can't yet give a bird treats):
1. Start walking slowly towards the cage (without looking like you are stalking him!). As soon as his body language starts changing, stop. This is your starting point.
2. Take one smooth step towards him. If he shows a little fear (eye open wide, feathers slicked down, slight leaning away), stop. As soon as he relaxes again, turn round and walk back to the starting point. (That's his reward/reinforcer for showing you relaxed body language - in other words you are removing the aversive, which is you at the moment).
3. Start again. See if you can take one and a half steps towards him, watching that body language. As soon as he shows a sign of discomfort. Stop. Wait. As soon as he relaxes, remove the aversive, ie. turn round and walk back to the starting point.
4. Start again. 2 smooth steps towards him...... etc until you can get up to the cage.
This works well with fear or aggression. And you'll find you can get quickly get faster at approaching with him remaining relaxed. But you need to really be on the ball watching for the slightest change in his body language and catching it way before it has a chance to escalate.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information, I will take it on board appreciate it
 
Little update on Pat, he escaped from the cage today (far too clever) lucky windows were shut and I was home but he enjoyed sitting on the tv and first time on his new freestanding perch, I let him fly and roam about if I tried to get near he would fly away to opposite part of room but i let him do his thing and he went back into his cage so I thought I would reward him with a nice fresh apple he ate it out my hand I was so happy not only did he return to his cage himself he trusted me enough to be hand fed next stop handling 💙
 
PatTheQuaker said:
Little update on Pat, he escaped from the cage today (far too clever) lucky windows were shut and I was home but he enjoyed sitting on the tv and first time on his new freestanding perch, I let him fly and roam about if I tried to get near he would fly away to opposite part of room but i let him do his thing and he went back into his cage so I thought I would reward him with a nice fresh apple he ate it out my hand I was so happy not only did he return to his cage himself he trusted me enough to be hand fed next stop handling 💙
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Wonderful progress! Since he liked the apple, I suggest using it as a treat that he can only get from you directly; don't leave it in his cage.
 
PatTheQuaker said:
Little update on Pat, he escaped from the cage today (far too clever) lucky windows were shut and I was home but he enjoyed sitting on the tv and first time on his new freestanding perch, I let him fly and roam about if I tried to get near he would fly away to opposite part of room but i let him do his thing and he went back into his cage so I thought I would reward him with a nice fresh apple he ate it out my hand I was so happy not only did he return to his cage himself he trusted me enough to be hand fed next stop handling 💙
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YESSSSSSSS!!! :partygroup::partygroup: Well done to both you and Pat!!!
 
Hi guys, wee Pat update, He is coming on leaps and bounds, he’s been out his cage daily going back in himself hes letting me pet him but still not coming on my finger yet (still teaching him) but what a difference from the information yous have given also my local pet store he had given me great tip to take his food away at night & he will be looking for it in morning take a handful of seed and put hand in sure as anything he was eating from my hand, next stage talking and handling thanks guys 🍻
 
PatTheQuaker said:
Hi guys, wee Pat update, He is coming on leaps and bounds, he’s been out his cage daily going back in himself hes letting me pet him but still not coming on my finger yet (still teaching him) but what a difference from the information yous have given also my local pet store he had given me great tip to take his food away at night & he will be looking for it in morning take a handful of seed and put hand in sure as anything he was eating from my hand, next stage talking and handling thanks guys 🍻
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Try offering him your flattened hand. A few of my birds won't step onto a finger, but they don't mind my palm/flattened fingers.

Great news!
 
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