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Can Somebody Help? - Screaming

Discussion in 'Training' started by KLD95, Oct 18, 2018.

  1. Roz

    Roz Regular Member

    That great you are making such good progress already!! :applaudit:

    Yes, you are going to have to be careful not to get nipped if he's on you and your partner is too close. And vice versa for your partner. As Rain said, he is probably bonding to you rather than your partner. But your partner is doing wonderfully by feeding Jed treats through the cage bars. That way Matthew is being paired with awesome experiences and he will gradually build up his own special relationship with Jed. I would sit as far apart from Matthew as Jed is comfortable with at the beginning, then slowly, slowly, over days or even weeks, gradually sit closer and closer watching Jed's body language closely. Be sure to reinforce his relaxed, calm behaviour.

    As for sitting on the edge of his food/water bowl, perhaps he didn't have a perch near to the bowls in his old home and he just got used to sitting on them. Nothing to worry about, hopefully he'll get used to sitting on the perches now.

    As for playing with toys, you are going to have to teach him to play. Notice the materials he likes and make small toys out of them. Soft woods like balsa or cactus chips can get them started... then move on to untreated pine slats. You can string these on paper rope or leather strips together with wooden beads. Fold up paper and punch a hold through the centre and string them up too. Toys tied to the sides of the cage where they don't move much may be more inviting than toys hung from the top of the cage to begin with. Start small and work up to bigger toys. The Natural Bird Product Company sell wonderful toy making parts as well as toys:

    https://www.naturalbirdco.co.uk/ourshop/cat_523266-Toy-Making-Parts.html
     
    DizzyBlue likes this.
  2. Michael Reynolds

    Michael Reynolds Regular Member

    These lovely Dracula's with wings or what I call them is clingons have a reputation of when they bite they sometimes cling on with there beaks. do not try to shake the bird off it will make the bird frightened of you and also cause you more damage so instead just put a little pressure on its feet or legs and your bird will let go. This rule can also apply to most species including Too's, greys; and amazons. its what a parent bird will do. the other thing I work with when I take a bird that has a history of biting on is holding the top beak when a bird applies too much pressure with its beak this will make the bird release some of the pressure yet again it is what a parent bird may do. Sparky I have to be a little careful of as he wants to dominate me so the first thing I do as I get him out of his cage is show him I am the boss by holding the top beak. now what can make a Senegal want to attack. I think that they have great hearing and certain sounds can drive them in a attacking mode. Terry hates any scraping sounds especially on metal so when he is out I do not scrape or clean metal objects. Niblet hates the sound of a spoon in a cup and also now just hates spoons so I do not make a drink when he is out. Sparky goes mad if he hears paper rustling and this includes opening packets of biscuit's. The one female Sennie I have came to me for re training as it was attacking it owner. I have tried every thing to get this bird too attack me so I can understand what the trigger for such actions are but I have never found one and she has been a lovely sweet well behaved girl. She will however (if she gets startled by another bird suddenly fly's past) fly to me and cling on with her feet until she calms down but this has been she has landed on my face that can be very concerning but no intention of hurting me. Looking at a Senegal and its body language can give great clues to its mood but its something you should try to note with your bird and also one thing you will learn in time along with the way they pin there eyes.
     
  3. Roz

    Roz Regular Member

    Dominating, being the boss, being top dog are all human concepts. Birds don't think like that. Yes, they can resource guard, but that is just to get food, it is not that they are dominating the rest of the flock. Going to the highest perch doesn't mean that bird is more dominant than the rest... the top perch (or even the curtain pole) is a perch of safety... a perch where the bird can more easily see approaching predators. If a bird bites it is not trying to dominate you, it is reacting to something you are doing. There is no need to use punishment as in grabbing the beak or squeezing the legs if you just watch the bird's body language and avoid the bite in the first place.

    If he does bite, ask yourself, what did you do? Did you heed his body language? Did you approach him too fast? Is he afraid of your hand? What happened in the environment? Was an aversive object, animal or person too close? Was he busy doing something else? Was he overstimulated during play? There are many, many reasons.

    Rethink your approach... how can you avoid the bite in the future and how can you positively reinforce either relaxed body language, stepping up or whatever you are trying to do.
     
  4. TomsMum

    TomsMum Administrator Staff Member Admin

    Roz’s guidance is the best here.

    I don’t agree with the holding a parrots beak stuff at all, the bird will not understand and that will cause a new parrot,owner further issues.
     
    dianaT and Wakizashi21 like this.
  5. Wakizashi21

    Wakizashi21 Regular Member

    Agreed Rox guidance is the best you can wish for


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    TomsMum likes this.